There's also know-how to be gained from knowing when replacing a jointed drive chain.

Failure to caulk the drive chain can cause lateral rattling in the movement of the linkage, or on the other hand, it can result in a stiff and reluctant movement, making it difficult to obtain smooth rotation. As for clip joint type chains (for small engine displacement class sizes), since the joint work is relatively easy, there are cases where the chain is connected without much thought, causing it to come off at the joint during driving. In this section, we will replace the clip joint type drive chain.

Use a grinder ahead of time when cutting off the caulking joint.

In this section, we will practice assembling a clip joint type chain, but if the chain you want to remove is a caulking joint type, find the connecting joint (the caulking pin shape is different) and grind off the caulking pin head with a disk grinder before splitting it.

Since the caulked pins are stronger than expected, it is better to first grind off the caulked parts of the pins with a grinder than to press directly on the pins with a chain cutter (which will cause the pins to bend and break), so that the joint can be pulled out smoothly later.

Order by "number of chain links" to facilitate quick replacement.

A new chain with the same number of links was on the market and I bought it. If you "miscount" and buy a chain with fewer (shorter) links than it should have, be careful, because it will not be long enough. If the number of links is too many, you can cut them off before using them.

The trick to prolonging the life of the chain cutting and caulking tool is to "remove the caulking of the pins to be cut in advance with a disk grinder" during the aforementioned chain cutting setup stage and to "apply molybdenum grease to the threaded parts" of the tool after the work is completed.

A good drive chain joint tool to have

When changing a drive chain, there are many cases where the chain is so taut that the joint seems to go into the pin, but it doesn't. In such cases, a joint tool (pliers) can be used to insert the joint by pinching the chain ends together at the pin hole.

The ends of the chain are brought together with a special tool, and the joint is inserted from the inside and the plate on the front side is set. When connecting the joint, it is best to do it on the sprocket for stability. After the joint connection is completed, do not forget to adjust the chain tension.

Performing the wiring process on the plate to prevent the clips from opening.

0.I used 6mm stainless steel wire and wire twisters to prevent clip joints from coming off. In the days when clip joints were the norm, the clip wire rings were inspected during pre-race vehicle inspections at Sunday and championship races.

The wiring was done in such a way that the side plates and clips were held together. With this method of securing the clips, it is unlikely that the wire will get caught between the chain and the sprocket and break the wire. Note also the "clip fixing direction" relative to the direction of rotation.

Moto Sport SL175, beautifully restored after a full restoration.

In the 1970s, many so-called intermediate displacement models such as the 160/175/180/200cc models were manufactured and sold. In Japan, the displacement range was built around 250cc models due to the vehicle inspection system, but in Europe in particular, models in the intermediate displacement class were popular from around the 1950s.

街中を走り去るバイクから聴こえてくる「キコキコ、カキカキッ……」のドライブチェーンノイズ。 If it gets too bad, you can hear the chain noise just by pushing the bike around. If the chain grease is well sprayed, such noise will be reduced, and you will not be bothered by it, but such cases are often seen on models under 250cc, which do not have a vehicle inspection system, and on mopeds that can be ridden easily. When maintaining the drive chain, it is ideal to run the chain lightly around the neighborhood to warm it up, then clean the chain and spray it with chain grease or chain lube. When cold, old chain grease sticks to the chain and often requires a lot of chemicals to wash off, but a light ride and warming up makes it easier than you might think to break down the sticking dirt. We hope you will give it a try next time you are in the area.

Here we will practice replacing the drive chain, but if you have a caulked or endless chain, start by cutting the chain. If you do not have a new chain to replace on hand, it is a good idea to count the number of links of the old chain in advance and arrange the chain according to that number. If the number of links is too many, you can use a chain cutter, a special tool, to trim the chain to match the number of links. When cutting the chain, instead of pushing and cutting the caulked pin as it is, the caulked part of the side plate should be shaved off with a disk grinder before pushing the cutter pin, so that the pin can be easily pulled out without requiring strong force. Keep in mind that whether or not this setup work is done makes a big difference in the life of the chain cutter tool.

When setting up a new chain, it is recommended that the end of the new chain be temporarily connected to the cut end of the old chain with a joint, and that the chain be replaced while turning the chain in a circular motion, as this is quick and easy. Furthermore, when connecting a new chain, it is sometimes impossible to "insert the joint pin" because the end of the chain cannot be pulled over. In such cases, it is useful to have a pliers tool to pull the pin hole (an internal snap ring pliers can be used in place of the pliers). Also, when installing the joint clips (clips that prevent the side plates from coming off), set the clips in a direction that prevents them from coming off (so that the leading side of the rotation direction is closed) in relation to the direction of rotation of the sprocket.

For the final touch, wire ring the joint clips for peace of mind. Today, caulked chain joints and endless chains are the norm, but in the racing scene, changing sprockets (changing the number of clips) is common due to gear ratio changes. Many users used clip joints. Therefore, many of them used wire rings to prevent the clips from coming off.