Reinforced spokes for "overloading specifications". There is also a magical modification to the spoke tension!
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Table of Contents
- 1 DIY challenge to convert the front wheel to aluminum rim with spoke conversion
- 2 Is this a magical modification? The secret of "rear hub modification" to incorporate extra thick spokes
- 3 The first step is to start stretching the inner spokes, followed by the outer spokes. .........
- 4 Push them in in an orthopedic manner. Let's force the work progress to some extent.
- 5 Rear spoke wheels with a "strong impression" that differs from the stock wheels.
DIY challenge to convert the front wheel to aluminum rim with spoke conversion
The front wheels were replaced with aluminum rims. The spokes were converted as is, but the nipples were replaced with larger diameter nipple holes to match the nipple holes on the aluminum rim side.
After this, the car was finished up to temporary assembly and stood by. The rear wheels were to be sent to a pro store for centering and runout removal.
Is this a magical modification? The secret of "rear hub modification" to incorporate extra thick spokes
Enlarge the spoke holes on the hub flange side using a drill bit slightly thicker than the under neck diameter of the extra thick spokes. The holes must be enlarged at an angle, rather than the normal holes, to allow insertion of extra thick spokes.
Because of the extra thick spokes, the nipple outer diameter is also changed to oversize. The nipple holes are enlarged using a drill that is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the nipple.
The nipple holes in the aluminum rims on the market are enlarged using a special drill made with the pro store's unique know-how. We requested this work with the understanding that it was a magical customization.
Enlarging a hole with a standard drill often causes the drill to dig into the hole below and often results in burrs on the hole edge after enlargement. This image shows how all nipple holes are stably enlarged.
Extra thick spokes for the rear, provided by the pro store. In terms of general size, it is the same size as the motocrosser models. The name of the spoke is "No. 8" spoke.
The first step is to start stretching the inner spokes, followed by the outer spokes. .........
Before assembly, the front and rear hubs were measured, and the distance from the reference plane was taken and illustrated so that the rim center matched the left and right flange centers where the spokes hook up.
The inner-covered spokes are inserted regularly from the outside of the hub, skipping one spot at a time. If the hole is simply enlarged, the spoke tip will hit the flange on the opposite side and not pass through. This is the reason for the sloping process.
Temporary assembly begins with the inserted inner hanging spokes. The standard tensioning method was used to create extra thick spokes, but the spoke lengths will be changed for custom orders such as changing the tensioning angle.
When incorporating the inner spoke, the know-how seems to be to tighten the nipple just enough to prevent it from falling off, about two to three laps. If there is little rattling, it will be difficult to set the outer spoke.
When enlarging the spoke holes in the hub flange and during the assembly process, it is said to be a good idea to leave the masking tape on to prevent scratching the hub.
Because of the special modified upholstery, it would be difficult to set the nipple on the outer spoke if there is no rattling on the inner spoke. The thicker the spoke, the harder it is to bend and thread the nipple through the hole.
Push them in in an orthopedic manner. Let's force the work progress to some extent.
If the edge of the nipple catches on the hole edge on the rim side, the nipple cannot be temporarily tightened. The hub is pressed against the guess tree and the rim is squeezed together.
Once the edges of all the nipples have emerged from the rim holes, the nipples are deftly tightened temporarily and centering runout removal begins. The temporary assembly work leading up to the final adjustment is truly a daunting task for this magical modification.
Rear spoke wheels with a "strong impression" that differs from the stock wheels.
The rear wheel assembly is the result of a lot of know-how, and the correct preparation is essential to install the extra-thick spokes. The extra thick spoke specification, which could not be installed with the normal hubs, was completed.
- The Honda CT110 was completely disassembled from a battered used Super Cub and repainted, and all the chrome parts that had lost their shine were powder coated in semi-glossy black. This customization is now in the realm of magical modification. Please keep in mind that this is just a small detail to let you know that this kind of customization is possible.
