The oil seals, which are low-pressure fitted in the crankcase and cylinder head, may be replaced without disassembling each part. In other words, only the oil seal can be replaced without disassembling the engine. Here, let us show you the power of a special tool that combines a small sliding hammer, a genuine manufacturer's special tool, and a homemade pickup piece. Once you realize how convenient this is, oil seal replacement will be fun, but ......
Table of Contents
- 1 Change shafts and kick shafts can also be replaced
- 2 Easy work once you get the hang of it! Can be applied in various situations.
- 3 Liquid gasket to improve slippage before it dries.
- 4 If the oil leak is from a paper gasket, leak repair.
- 5 There are various types of liquid gaskets. Use different types for reliable work.
- 6 There are various types of liquid gaskets available, so it is important to choose the right one.
Change shafts and kick shafts can also be replaced
Driveshaft seals can cause oil to flow out if pulled out with the vehicle in an upright position, so it is best to work with the vehicle tilted wide beforehand to prevent oil from flowing out.
This is a small, homemade special tool for oil seal removal that combines a sliding hammer, a genuine Yamaha special tool, with a homemade tip piece; the piece is as simple as shaving the shaft part of an M6 bolt with a disk grinder and bending the tip.
A half-threaded type of M6 bolt was used. The threaded side was set on a sliding hammer end (it was M6 size) and the unthreaded part was cut with a disk grinder to create the shape.
Easy work once you get the hang of it! Can be applied in various situations.
The returned machined portion of the piece was slipped over the oil seal lip area. Be careful not to scratch the driveshaft in this process. Depending on the situation, grease may be applied.
Stand the sliding hammer parallel to the transmission shaft and slide the weight to pull the oil seal out. If you can't pull it out the first time, do the same on the other side.
After pulling out the oil seal, soak a rag with parts cleaner and degrease the inner wall of the crankcase, which will be the oil seal holder. Now it's time to assemble the new seal.
If the lip of the oil seal is the type that touches the transmission shaft directly, mask the uneven part of the shaft tip with vinyl tape to prevent damage to the lip.
Liquid gasket to improve slippage before it dries.
The key is to apply a thin layer of liquid gasket to the outer circumference of the oil seal. Rather than the image of improving sealing performance, the oil seal is expected to slide smoothly into the oil seal. Two birds with one stone.
A small amount of grease was applied over the masking tape so that the oil seal lip could be pressed in smoothly without damaging it. The same grease was applied to the oil seal lip side.
The oil seal was pushed in with an average fingertip, being careful not to pop out the backup spring that goes inside the seal lip. Push it all the way to the crankcase edge.
If the oil leak is from a paper gasket, leak repair.
Spray-type aerosol leak repair. This is a revolutionary product that holds oil leaks from the outside. It seems to be effective to wait for it to dry before spraying several times. When completely dry, an extremely tough vinyl film is formed, making it difficult to peel off. This is a proven chemical used on the production line of a motorcycle manufacturer.
When oil seepage is slowly coming from the gasket surface, or when the situation becomes oily and sweaty after running for a while, identify the affected area before using the leak repair spray.
When oil seepage or oil leakage is obvious, gasket replacement should be performed, but Leak Repair is a powerful oil stopper in an emergency. When overlapping spraying, allow extra time to work on it.
There are various types of liquid gaskets. Use different types for reliable work.
When repairing an area that has a history of oil seepage or oil leakage in the past, the same liquid gasket can be used with a product that can be "thickened" to increase the filling effect.
It is better to use different types of liquid gaskets, as there are various types of products available, such as thin, thick, gasoline-resistant, and heat-resistant. If the O-ring seeps, it should be replaced with a new one.
There are various types of liquid gaskets available, so it is important to choose the right one.
There are many different types of liquid gaskets, so it's important to ask yourself, "Are they gasoline resistant?" "Are they gasoline resistant?" and "Are they not?" There are two main types of liquid gaskets: those that are gasoline-resistant and those that are not gasoline-resistant. Even if it is used for the engine itself, "gasoline resistant liquid gasket" should be used for the crank chamber of 2-stroke engines in order to handle mixed gasoline.
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- Point 1: There are oil seals that can be pulled out, and there are oil seals with flanges or ribs that cannot be pulled out.
- Point
- 2: Because the oil seal can be replaced from the outside, use different types of liquid gaskets and grease to prevent damage to the lip of the new seal.
- are
Oil leaks and oil seepage
symptoms that should occur at all locations where oil-based chemicals are used. In the case of a car body, oil leaks and seepage occur around the oil seals of the front forks and rear shocks, and in the case of an engine, oil leaks and seepage also occur around each gasket, packing, and oil seal. In very rare cases, oil leaks occur from unexpected locations, and it is very difficult to identify the point. Cracks in engine parts and porosities created during the casting and manufacturing of engine parts are the most common causes. Most of the causes of oil leaks in vehicle body parts start from dust adhesion or scratches caused by bouncing stones. If the trouble is caused by an unforeseen event, it is easy to give up, but if the trouble is triggered by mere dirt, it would be disappointing. That is why it is important to clean and wipe off dirt on a motorcycle whenever you notice it. For example, if the bike is left unattended for a long period of time, even if it is stored in a garage, the bike will be covered with dust, and the dust and moisture will combine to cause "spot rust" on the front forks and other parts. The inner tubes of front forks and chrome-plated exhaust pipes are more prone to condensation than ordinary painted or plastic parts. If you take the bike outside during the warm day and put it away in the garage when the sun goes down, the cold bike will be moist and the chrome-plated parts will be lightly fogged with condensation. ...... Dust absorbs and maintains such condensation, and when you notice it, you will see spot rust on inner tubes, fenders, and other plated parts. To protect the bike from such rust and condensation, it is better to wrap a bath towel around the inner tube when storing the bike for a long period of time to prevent condensation from forming, and at the same time, to hang an unused blanket or towel blanket on the bike. Ignoring the presence of such condensation and dust will damage the fork seal lip when it is moved, causing oil leaks. Now that we have gotten off the subject, it is important to remember that there are ways to deal with oil leaks without panicking when they are discovered. In this section, we will discuss how to repair the oil seals that are incorporated in the engine (specifically, those for the change spindle and kick shaft. The driveshaft-spec oil seal can be replaced. Some models have oil seals with flanges or ribs on the outer circumference, but such types cannot be practiced here), gaskets and O-rings to stop leaks, and spray-on repair repair chemicals, but there are also "tricks" in the practice of using each. Leak Repair is difficult to spray over when cold, and tends to run off when the engine is hot to the touch, so when using the product, it seemed to be more efficient to spray repeatedly in a temperature range that is warm enough to touch with the hand to efficiently laminate. Go to (16)
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