Thoroughly utilize the loading area of the CT125! Three useful items when carrying cargo!

The huge rear rack is one of the features of the Hunter Cub. Though there are many motorcycles in the world, I think you'll be hard pressed to find another with such a big rack. Personally, however, I think it's a little too big and I wanted to make it as compact as possible. So I converted it to a DRC compact rack and installed a conversion duct in the process. Even though I wanted a compact rack, I still want to be able to install side bags, so I also equipped it with DRC side bag supports that can be used on both sides, which is quite rare among the many side bag supports available.

Get rid of the snorkel with a conversion duct before replacing the rack!

The CT125 has an air intake that extends to the back of the rack, just like the CT110 that it is based on.

This is a technique used in XC four-wheel drive vehicles, where the air intake is used as a snorkel to prevent submersion. This layout is inherited from the CT110, so I would like to keep it if possible, but it's a hassle to change the rack when you have a snorkel. That's where ZETA's Conversion Duct comes in. It is easy to install and gives the bike a nice silhouette. It looks good, and it also makes it easier to replace the rack.

So, first things first, let's install the conversion duct to make it easier to replace the rack.

To remove the snorkel, first remove these two cap bolts. Once the bolts are removed, pull out the connecting part that has a grid pattern. It has just been inserted and not attached so it should come out easily if you pull it carefully.

Lastly, remove the air intake from the rack. As with other exterior parts, it has a lip to hook it on, so do not apply excessive force. Make sure you store the bolts along with the snorkel part so as not to lose them. Once the snorkel section is removed, all that remains is to carefully insert the conversion duct.

Although you simply need to insert the conversion duct, you can see from the shape of the opening that it is necessary to fit the entire circumference of the oval in firmly. If you squish the duct as in the photo above when inserting it you can get it installed properly. Be especially careful to check the back side since it is harder to see. After confirming that the entire circumference of the duct is tightly fitted, the installation is complete.

Of course, it's fine like this, but if you are careless like me, you might knock it off with your foot or something when you put the center stand down. So let's wire it up just in case.

Wire attachment gives you peace of mind in case it falls off. Also, it makes it look race-like and cool. The work itself is easy. Simply pass the wire through the conversion duct, connect it to the wire plate, and attach it to the bike body. The wire twister also has a cutting function, so you can do all this with just the one tool.

I wasn't sure of the best way to do this, so I twisted the wire after the plate first, and then twisted the wire between the plate and the conversion duct. If you're good at it, you might have a better way in mind. If you twist too much, the wire will break, so it's important to stop at the right amount.

This completes the process. A wire twister is very convenient to have around, so this might be a good occasion to purchase one. With the conversion duct installed, the rest of the work will be dramatically easier. Even if that wasn't the case, it's just plain cool, so I highly recommend it.

Install the compact rack!

Replacing the stock rack reduces weight by 2.5kg, which is quite significant. It can also accommodate a stock Honda pillion seat, and various seat bags can be installed easily. This item allows for weight reduction and a sleek silhouette while retaining the same level of usability as the stock rack. The rack can be detached by removing the two bolts on the top surface and loosening the nuts on the left and right sides. The work is basically the same as on other Cub series bikes. However, please note that the exhaust fastening bolt is screwed on quite hard.

As is the standard structure of the Cub series, a shaft coming out of the body serves as the bolt, and the suspension and rack are attached. The exhaust is also fastened on the right side. The left side is not so difficult, but the nut on the exhaust side is tightened quite hard, so be careful. Loosen the exhaust fastening nut first, and then loosen the long nut for attaching the suspension and rack. It is not necessary to remove the nut on the exhaust side, just loosen it. Once loosened, simply swap out the stock rack for the compact rack. If you do not install the conversion kit mentioned above, you will need to deal with the air intake.

In addition, the Easy Ring Belt, which has recently become the mainstream for seat bag mounting, is easier to use than with the stock rack.

Side bag support for more convenient loading!

The rear rack alone has enough carrying capacity, but if possible I'd like to install side bags also. After all, side bags look good. There are many attractive side bags available in a variety of designs and capacities, so you should have no trouble choosing the right one. Another advantage is that the center of gravity doesn't get raised too much and it is very convenient to be able to separate your luggage.

So, we want to install side bags, but we also want to install supports for safety. Of course, with the Hunter Cub, there is a wide choice of side bag supports available from various companies, but the majority are left side bag supports. Because of the high-mount exhaust on the right side, side bag supports that cover both sides are quite rare. However, DRC, which is the same brand as the Compact Rack introduced above, offers supports that can be used on both sides, and can also be installed on one side only as well. You can use just the left side for everyday use and change to both sides when you want to increase the load capacity for long-distance touring.

So, let's go ahead and install it. Installation is fairly easy. Just remove the bolts from the rack and attach the base part together. Then, just attach the left and right support parts.

All that remains is to attach the left and right side bag supports to this base. It is also possible to attach just one side.

When completed, it looks like this.

The pipe diameter is 16mm, so it looks and feels quite secure and seems like it will support the side bags well. The main function of the side bag support is to prevent bags from getting trapped in the wheels, but by utilizing the belt loops on the corners, the side bag can also be secured more firmly. Additionally, the right side support avoids interference with the stock exhaust, so you can mount a bag with no worries. So, let's try mounting a bag!

Since there is a bit of distance between the rack and the side bag support, I attached the bag with a belt to the support itself. The bag mounts a bit low, but it doesn't look out of place. If you want to mount it higher, you could replace the mounting belt with a longer one. The DRC side bag supports can also be attached when using the stock rack. The mounting method itself is the same as that of the compact rack, so we'll skip that part.

Let's try mounting the same Henly Begins DHS-30 bag as before, this time with the DRC side bag support and stock rack combination.

As you can see, the mounting flexibility is quite high. Thanks to the support, the bag is mounted upright, which looks very secure and, above all, cool.

Summary

The lightweight, compact rack has a significantly different look, as well as the potential to be used not only for daily use but also for touring. However, the stock rack itself has a larger load capacity, so it might be fun to use them interchangeably depending on the situation. Also, the side bag support can be installed on either one side or both sides, so you can flexibly adapt it to your needs. The conversion duct makes it very easy to attach and detach the racks, so you can feel free to enjoy changing them back and forth to suit your needs.